Когда обычный человек слышит слово «Крым», он обязательно представляет Ласточкино Гнездо, беспорядочное нагромождение каменных истуканов в Долине Привидений, Кара-Даг, море, солнце. Ну, и так далее.
Увы, дорогие мои, если бы все было так хорошо! Центральный Крым, это, прежде всего, степи, похожие на каменистые пустыни. Они покрыты выжженной на солнце травой, где спекшаяся глина стучит под ногами, как асфальт, а асфальт растекается, как кисель.
И вот в таком месте, лишенном всякой романтики, открылся сафари-парк «Тайган».
Что такое сафари? Первоначально — это варварское развлечение, придуманное для любителей впустить в кровь порцию адреналина, но при этом без риска для своей драгоценной жизни. Охота с автомобиля.
Однако, поскольку человек все же помаленьку цивилизуется, под сафари все чаще понимают фотоохоту с автомобиля. И возможна она только там, где не надо сидеть сутками в засаде, чтобы сделать один-единственный кадр. В заповедниках и национальных парках.
Это возможность увидеть дикое животное на свободе, а не в клетке.
Увы, удовольствие это дорогое, даже если не принимать во внимание, что до сафари еще надо добраться. Африка. Индия, Южная Америка. На кенгуру бы посмотреть. А водятся они только в Австралии. Словом, грустная песня.
Поэтому, известие о сафари-парке у себя под боком, вызвало одну мысль — вот оно счастье! Через неделю после открытия, я была уже там.
За два года я побывала в нем несколько раз и попробую высказать комплексное впечатление. Во-первых, парк львов Тайган, или сафари-парк, это не только львы и не только сафари. Он разделен на две зоны — зоопарка и, собственно, сафари-парка.
Начну с зоопарка. Я люблю животных. В разных городах старалась сходить в зоопарк. И в каждом обязательно встречалась какая-то саднящая деталь, от которой было больно на душе. Проходило время. Зоопарк забывался, а боль оставалась. В последний раз это был лось в Киевском зоопарке. Он лежал на снегу в крохотном вольерчике. А над ним, на высоте в полтора метра была натянута сетка. Он, в принципе, не мог встать. Он просто умирал.
Тайган — это что-то совсем другое. Это территория любви. Животных там разрешается кормить, и от постоянного общения с людьми они стали совсем ручными. Корм продается в парке, но, чтобы сэкономить, мы взяли с собой морковки, яблок и бананов.
Я думаю, этого делать не следует. Потому что специалисты подбирают корма, которые животным не повредят. Но мы покупали только качественные плоды, накануне тщательно вымыли и высушили их.
Нам казалось, что львы в сафари-зоне — это страшно интересно, и поэтому мы оставили их на закуску. Увы, совершили ошибку. Не потому что львы — это отстой, а потому, что и первая серия была настолько захватывающей, что на кошек времени почти не осталось. Мы так и не увидели в тот раз леопардов, белого тигра и тигрольва.
Итак, взвалив на плечи внушительные торбы с угощением, мы двинулись вдоль вольеров и клеток. Кого там только не было. Еноты, лисы, волки, гиены, медведи, страусы, Всего не перечислить. Да! Не было кенгуру и слонов. Но их отсутствие с лихвой восполнили обезьяны, жирафы и коати.
К обезьянам можно было подойти совсем близко. Мы отламывали кусочки банана и протягивали симпатичной умной, ручной, как казалось, зверушке. Она просовывала руку сквозь сетку и, взяв угощенье, обстоятельно усаживалась неподалеку. Съедала, подходила к сетке и требовательно смотрела в глаза. И, надо же было мне, когда обезьянья ручка вновь просунулась за угощеньем, осторожно ее пожать. В тот же миг она взлетела по сетке на уровень моего лица, и передо мной очутилась оскаленная взъерошенная фурия. Отчаянно вереща, она смотрела мне прямо в глаза, и в ее взгляде я явственно читала ненависть. И тогда я почувствовала, просто-таки всеми фибрами души, что люди произошли от обезьян. Холерики, по крайней мере.
Да, когда я сказала, что после посещения этого парка душа у меня не болела — это не так. Очень тяжелое впечатление оставило посещение капуцинов. Это маленькие обезьянки, которых в клетке было не меньше сотни. Вы когда-нибудь видели ватагу неблагополучных детей? Не просто детей, малолетних заключенных. Может быть из-за скученности, но обезьянки вели себя именно так. Один детеныш, маленький и слабый, был выбран на роль козла отпущения. Остальные набрасывались на него скопом. Били, щипали, отнимали корм. И чем больше он кричал и плакал, тем больше над ним издевались. И, хотя я первый раз видела капуцинов, впечатление было таким, что эту сцену наблюдала много раз среди людей.
Все остальное было замечательно. Кормежка животных — занятие захватывающее. Особенно поразили хищники. Если бы вы знали, как бережно берет корм лисичка. Как собачка. А коати! Они поднимались по сетке навстречу гостям и ждали. Сначала было страшновато. Но потом!
Если бы вы знали, какое блаженство чувствовать, как крохотная ручка осторожно обхватывает твой палец, подтягивает его ко рту и огромными зубищами осторожно-осторожно, стараясь не задеть, берет кусочек корма.
Расслабившись и разомлев от умиления, я так же попыталась кормить вьетнамских свинок. Да не тут- то было. В противовес мнению, что свинья — умнейшее создание, чуть ли не повторяющее человека, она тут же, весьма ощутимо, тяпнула меня за палец. Промахнулась. Но стенания мои над укушенной рукой прекратились, стоило увидеть, раскрытую, как чемодан, пасть дикого кабана — обитателя следующего вольера. Мое отношение к вьетнамской свинке тут же сменилось нежностью. Спасибо, родная, что предупредила, иначе мне бы недосчитаться руки до локтя.
Мы зашли в Бабушкин дворик, где живут все представители домашнего деревенского хозяйства, только маленькие. Карликовые. Они становились копытцами нам на руки и заглядывали в глаза.
Потом были зебу, бизоны, жирафы, зебры, верблюды. Медведей мы кормили морковкой, волков сухим собачьим кормом. По дорожкам ходили павлины. Мы гонялись за ними с фотоаппаратом, стараясь не пропустить момент, когда павлин распустит хвост. Мы надолго застревали v клеток с дрофами, попугаями, журавлями, грифами. А корм все был и был.
И вдруг, как гром среди ясного неба телефонный звонок. Пора. Осталось полчаса! А у львов-то мы и не были. Мы понеслись, стараясь хоть как-то наверстать упущенное время.
Сафари-зона — это гектаров десять степи с редкими кустарниками и деревьями, напоминающими саванну. Там, на свободном выгуле живет 56 львов. Самых настоящих, огромных, с косматой гривой и кисточкой на хвосте. Над зоной метрах в трех проложены металлические мостки, по которым ходят толпы туристов. Львы на них внимания не обращают. Привыкли. Животные они малоподвижные. Под солнцем большую часть времени лежат. Но если кто-нибудь решит прогуляться, за ним кидается толпа с фотоаппаратами. И мостки гудят от топота сотен ног.
В следующие разы мы проводили в этом замечательном парке все больше времени. Там есть, фонтан, ротонды, в которых можно укрыться от жары, кафе. Когда в последний раз мы выходили после 6-часовой прогулки, от парка уже тошнило. Но стоило отъехать на пару километров, как стало ясно, что очень скоро мы туда вернемся снова.
И, может быть тогда дело, наконец, дойдет до знаменитого тигрольва, которого, вот уже в который раз, мы так и не смогли обнаружить на 32 гектарах сафари-парка «Тайган»
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